Duster Jacket Shell

Update to progress of the Duster Jacket.  The outer shell is done.  No problems in the construction at all.  I posted last week that I was going to reduce the hemline sweep but, I changed my mind and left it as is according the pattern.  After getting the shell done I saw the armhole is very high and tight.  If anyone wanted to wear this as a regular day wear jacket the armhole would need to be re-drafted to fit more comfortably for the modern wearer.  I very pleased how it is coming along so far.  What’s next, the lining and hem and we are good to go on my first pattern for the project.

April 1912 Duster Jacket

Well, here is the pieces to the Duster.  The fabric is a yellow-green canvas and the trim is a brown-green stripe canvas.  On the cuffs, I did not apply the trim according to the pattern; I made a trim pattern and applied it right to the cuff.  Lots of clipping and trimming and pressing to get it to lay nicely.  The collar applied the trim in three separate parts.  I may trim the hem with bias of the stripe haven’t made up my mind yet.  The sleeves are narrow but the body of the jacket looks huge!

I moved the button hole placement over from the original placement on the pattern but, in hind site I think that I will have to play with that but I won’t cross that bridge until I get there.  More to come some.

Third Jacket Muslin

Okay, so here is the third muslin.  The second muslin looked really, really boxy and just hung there.  As you can see from the pinning, I am adding some curving back in.  Not much just enough to get a cleaner line.  I think that I am almost there.  Yippee!

Second test muslin

So here is the second muslin.  I lowered the bottom half and in doing so I lost most of the curve at the center front opening.  I re-drafted the pattern to reflect the mannish look for the period.  I removed the princess lines from the front and back.  On the front I added shoulder darts that end below the bust line.  However, I fell that I need to add some bit of curve back to the pattern.  So off to the drawing board again.

First draft of the muslin.

After sewing up the first muslin, I happy with the first draft.  But, the jacket is much to curvy for 1912.  The sleeves and collar are great as is.  I will have to release more of the curve and lower the bottom half.

The 1912 Titancic Project

Welcome to the 1912 Project hosted by Vintage Pattern Lending Library.  Throughout 2012, over 400 participants world wide will taking part in the project to recreate the fashions of 1912 from La Mode Illustree.  This is cover of the April 1912 issue, but, unfortunately the pattern is not available.  I have decided to to recreate the suit on my own, separate from my assigned pattern.  I hope to have the suit completely done by April 2012.

I am think purple with purple plaid for the suit.

Hello there

This blog site dedicated to showcasing my talent and writing about it.  I have been sewing for over 20 years and designing for about 7 officially but, over 10 un-0fficially.